B+ Umit Benan Men’s Spring 2023


Why would fashion folks ride through the city to a liminal Milan neighborhood to visit Umit Benan’s atelier?

It’s about his creative concoctions, there is no different way to put it. Such wonders need to be seen and touched.

The designer has mastered his sartorial skills to achieve a sophisticated, yet nonchalant look that, word has it, has already impressed quite a few fashion moguls, now clients of his.

For spring, he conjured a Cuban sailor off-duty look, but forget Benan’s rich narratives of the past. It was so subtly referenced it never overshadowed the impeccable cuts, precious fabrics and small details that set his tailoring apart.

The lineup was punctuated by safari jackets in linen-silk with pleated pants, the silky shirts with a scarf peeking from underneath adding a sensual twist; mandarin collared blazers done in silk shantung worn over floor-length caftans; reinvented workwear pants with pleats, and pleated sailor pants, both flattering. A striped section, with shirts, bottoms and caftans had a loungewear vibe, as in one’s most exquisite pajamas, rather than one’s comfiest.