13/04/2018 – 17/04/2018 @ 12:00 am –
Bonhams one of the world’s oldest and largest auctioneers of fine art and antiques. Line up the best in class jewels and gemstones. To be featured in this great line-up on Tuesday, April 17th at 3 pm, 580 Madison Avenue, NY NY 10022.
Date(s) - 13/04/2018 - 17/04/2018
An Art Deco Diamond “S-Shaped” Clip by Rene Boivin, circa 1934
Born into a family of Parisian jewelers in 1864, Rene Boivin originally hoped to become a doctor but joined the family business at seventeen. By 1890 Boivin had mastered his craft and three years later married Jean Poiret, the sister of famous French couturier Paul Poiret. With strong family roots in the world of Paris fashion, Jeanne Boivin’s audacious decision to take over her husband’s business upon his death in 1917 was a foreshadowing of things to come and her contribution to jewelry extended
far beyond style and craftsmanship. Under the guidance of Jeanne Boivin, Suzanne Belperron followed by Juliette Moutard and Jeanne’s daughter Germaine, established Maison Boivin as one of the first all-women design teams in Paris.
Sophisticated and chic, Boivin jewels are easily recognizable for their volume, bold lines and sculptural design. Pieces produced between 1930 and 1940 are highly sought after and this platinum and diamond clip captures the essence of this period’s aesthetic. Gemstone quality was secondary to design and many of the pieces created by Maison Boivin were commissioned and therefore unsigned. It was this untraditional, bold creativity that captured the attention of iconic and infamous women of the era and lures collectors to seek out jewels by Maison Rene Boivin to this day.
An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier
It has been over a century since Pierre Cartier designed the first piece of Indian inspired jewelry, a special commission for Queen Alexandra of England in 1902. This would be Cartier’s first commission for the English Royal House and their entre into the majestic world of the Maharajas. But it wasn’t until 1909, when Jacques Cartier assumed control of all business in India, that India would take its place as an important part of Cartier’s history.
The Indian influence, also known as the Moghul Style, became a tremendous source of inspiration for Cartier’s designer, Jeanne Toussaint. Using the colorful gemstones purchased by Jacques, Jeanne Toussaint merged the Indian aesthetic with French Art Deco, creating a distinct style that would become iconic to the house of Cartier. This bracelet, featuring Burmese ruby beads and diamonds set in lily of the valley mountings is a superb example of the jewelry from this period.
An Opal and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Andrew Grima, 1972
Charismatic Anglo-Italian jeweler Andrew Grima was regarded as one of the 20th century’s most daring and imaginative designers. He was the go-to society jeweler for royals, celebrities, socialites and artists throughout the Swinging Sixties and Seventies and his earliest clients included HM The Queen, The Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Bond Girl Ursula Andress. Today, collectors of his work include fashion designers Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada.
Grima’s groundbreaking designs, which drew inspiration from art, sculpture and the natural world. He created bold and unusual jewels whose value lay in their aesthetic composition rather than just in the carat weight of expensive diamonds and precious gems. He is recognized as one of the great modernist jewelry designers of the 20th century and his pieces are highly sought after worldwide.