Moschino RTW Spring 2023
Inflation is putting pressure on millions of people and countless industries. Jeremy Scott found his escape valve in inflatables, and Moschino’s long legacy of fashion send-ups.
He covered all the bases on his long white runway, punctuated with a fancy fountain and ringed with a bedskirt. He inserted life preservers under peplum jackets, or posed them as hats on nautical looks. Pool toys abounded: loungers became a train on a cocktail dress, or an impromptu shawl; swans a wackadoodle makeshift bolero.
Airplane life vests fronted jackets with a whiff of Rue Cambon, dolphin balloons served as opera-length gloves, while a yellow trench coat accrued life-raft handles as wacky epaulettes. Need we go on?
Scott opened his display with puffy red hearts stuck on prim LBDs and luncheon suits, accessorized with red pumps and red lips. Heart-shaped lapels and pocket flaps were also inflatable, and had charm.
You had to chuckle at the sight of a nozzle protruding from a floral puffer jacket with vertical channels. Was it filled with feathers, or hot air?
The show became sillier as it progressed, until models were practically swallowed up with cartoon pool floats depicting bunnies, turtles and tigers.
Backstage, sipping Champagne from a plastic cup and gossiping with Heidi Klum, Scott described his show as a balm in a world marred by war, climate change and economic strive.
“I think even with this negativity, we need to hold space for joy to be able to carry on, to battle, to fight, to continue,” he said. “You know, humor helps, also levity, love, light, passion – when things are so dark and literally wear your heart on your sleeve.”