Blancpain Finally Listened to Its Fans and Made a Smaller Fifty Fathoms Diver

By Alicia Keys Channel On Mar 22, 2024

Dive watch fans, rejoice.

Blancpain

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The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a legend in the watch world, and with good reason. Back in 1953, the first iteration of the FF debuted as what is today considered the first modern, purpose-built dive watch. Originally created at the request of the French Navy, vintage Fifty Fathoms divers were long a favorite among collectors during the several-decade period where no Fifty Fathoms were produced. Blancpain released a small handful of special limited-edition versions in the ’90s and early 2000s, then in 2007, the brand permanently reintroduced the line to its modern catalog in the form of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique.

There was just one problem. The modern version of the Fifty Fathoms was huge. At 45mm across, it was considerably larger than other iconic luxury dive watches like the Rolex Submariner (then 40mm, today 41mm) and Omega Seamaster (then 41mm, today 42mm). For years, Blancpain fans have begged the brand to produce a permanent Fifty Fathoms in a smaller, more wearable case size. And after ceaseless pestering in the comments section of seemingly every post on Blancpain’s Instagram account, Blancpain has finally given the people what they want.

Meet the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm

The new version of the Fifty Fathoms is almost the same watch as the 45mm version that’s become a Blancpain mainstay, just in a more wearable and refined package. The case and dial designs are the same, including the iconic fully-lumed sapphire bezel, and the watch is still powered by the Blancpain Calibre 1315 movement. A true high horology movement, the Cal. 1315 features a solid gold rotor, a silicon hairspring, 35 jewels and 120 hours thanks to three series-coupled barrels.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch movement — The Fifty Fathoms 42mm is still powered by the impressive Cal. 1315 movement, complete with a black nano ceramic-coated 18K red gold rotor.

The big difference, though, is the reduced case size. The new Fifty Fathoms comes in at 42.3mm across, 47mm lug-to-lug and 14.3mm thick. These proportions are identical to the highly praised Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act I released last year, whose case mold was also used to create the Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms last year. In retrospect, we should’ve known this smaller FF was coming after Swatch went with a 42mm style instead of the more widely known 45mm version.

Materials-wise, there are two options for the 42mm Fifty Fathoms to start. And no, neither of them is stainless steel (baby steps). There’s an 18K red gold version, along with a titanium version. Rather than going with the more common Type 2 or Type 5 titanium, Blancpain has opted for Grade 23, which I’m calling the Michael Jordan of titaniums for obvious reasons. It’s considered the purest form of the lightweight metal and is more resistant to scratching and corrosion than other titanium alloys. Both materials are available with either a black or blue dial and your choice of a matching NATO, sailcloth or — new to the collection overall — Tropic rubber strap. Finally, the titanium version is also available on a bracelet.

blancpain gold dive watch — In addition to the titanium version, the 42mm Fifty Fathoms is also available in solid 18K red gold.

blancpain rubber watch strap — The 42mm collection sees the debut of a Tropic rubber strap akin to the ones found on the original Fifty Fathoms.

The Smaller Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: What We Think

While my knee-jerk reaction is to scream “It should be 40mm!”, when I stop and think about it, it’s hard to see this as anything but a win for Blancpain. I’ve tried on the 45mm version of the Fifty Fathoms in titanium, and it’s enormous. In no way is it wearable for my 6.25-inch wrist, and I’m certainly not alone in that boat.

blancpain dive watch on mans wrist — The older Fifty Fathoms in 45mm is impressive, but it’s comically large.

I haven’t tried on the new 42mm version yet, but I have worn the Swatch version that boasts the exact same case dimensions. It’s a thick watch, and by no means is it small, but thanks to its short lug-to-lug of just 47mm, I found it imminently wearable and comfortable. Obviously, the real deal is going to be heavier than the Swatch version, but the titanium version won’t be too much heavier. That’s the version I’d go for personally, on a strap to increase wearability and further reduce weight.

Some will lament the lack of a more affordable stainless steel option, and maybe we’ll see one in the future, but I think Grade 23 titanium is the perfect material for the watch not only because of its lightness, but also because of Blancpain’s upper-level luxury status. Prices range from $16,600 for titanium on a NATO to $34,300 for a red gold version on a Tropic rubber or sailcloth strap.

And for those of you big-wristed folk who love the older 45mm version, have no fear: Blancpain’s reps have assured me it’s not going anywhere.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm

After nearly two decades of only being available as a 45mm behemoth in Blancpain’s permanent collection, the brand released a smaller 42mm version of its flagship Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a more wearable 42mm size. Available in red gold or ultra-tough Grade 23 titanium, the more compact version of the iconic diver is still powered by the impressive in-house Cal. 1315 movement with its five-day power reserve.