Resort 2023 is Roland Mouret’s first collection under new ownership, Han Chong’s SP Collection.
While it doesn’t signal a new direction for the brand — Mouret’s signature curves were still out in force — it was a more focused outing than in the past, and far more versatile.
“It’s a crowded market and we put a lot of effort into every piece,” Chong said during an exclusive interview with Mouret earlier this year.
“Han was adamant that I open up the necklines — ‘Give me more neckline,’” Mouret recalled Chong telling him. Hence the deep V-neck on an orange gown with power shoulders, and on a turquoise off-the shoulder midi dress.
“He also likes things to be practical and pure, without being boring and plain,” said Mouret, adding that this collection has “more movement and draping — and fewer zippers. It’s as if I’m trying to ‘control’ the outfit less. The silhouettes are more supple, and I’m trying to destroy this idea of an ‘office dress.’
“These outfits need to be a woman’s best friend, to go from day to night, and be relevant for now,” Mouret added.
Fabrics included stretch viscose, wool crepe, jersey, cashmere and wool, with embellishments including sequins and diamanté. There was certainly more flesh on show, but the curvy silhouettes and punchy colors were unmistakably Mouret.
To create shape and sculpt the figure, Mouret created knits from a mix of chenille and power mesh, and dresses with cutout details, sheer mesh panels, internal corsets and boning at the waist.
There was great tailoring in the mix, too, including a black tuxedo coat, while a viscose wedding gown could easily be popped out of a suitcase in keeping with the collection’s easy, versatile approach.
