These are the watches that just have “it.”
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What makes a watch cool? Well, I guess it depends on the person. What one person finds stylish and interesting may strike another as hideous and boring. Coolness is subjective. I know what I think is cool, and you, in all likelihood, know what you think is cool. You certainly don’t need me to tell you what’s cool, but if you want to hear what I have to say just the same, keep reading.
In my line of work, there are a lot of watches I come across that cause me to stop and say something along the lines of “Damn, that’s cool.” So it got me thinking: Which watches are the coolest? Not necessarily the best watches, or the best-looking, or even the ones I would most like to add to my own collection. Which are the watches that have that special x-factor, that je ne sais quoi that makes them extra special?
I’ve chosen one watch from 12 of my favorite brands that I believe is the single coolest watch currently offered by each of those companies. I based my picks on a combination of the watches’ looks, features and, mostly, just their vibes, man. You may disagree with some of my picks. In fact, I’m almost certain you will. But that’s what makes this kind of exercise fun, right?
The Coolest TAG Heuer Watch
TAG HeuerTAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper
Specs
| Case Size | 39mm |
| Movement | TAG Heuer Cal. TH20-06 automatic chronograph |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
Pros
- A fun reinterpretation of a classic Heuer
- An unusual mix of colors that looks great together
Cons
- Frequently sold out
- No screw-down crown, so be careful out on the water!
I’m not a yacht guy. I do not own a yacht. I have never been on a yacht. And I have no practical use for a yachting watch. But … I still think yachting watches are cool. I guess it’s a mix of the colorful subdials traditionally used to time regattas and the overall romance associated with cruising on some expensive boat in the Mediterranean that won me over. (I also love me some yacht rock, but that’s another matter.)
A modern reinterpretation of a vintage Heuer yacht timer of the same name, the modern Skipper is the current king of yacht watches. I love its unabashedly fun use of color, its smiling “Skipper” logo, its canvas strap and its compact size. I also love that TAG chose to remake it in the new “Glassbox” Carrera style, which ups the coolness factor considerably thanks to that expansive domed sapphire crystal.
The Coolest Grand Seiko Watch
Grand SeikoGrand Seiko Mist Flake SBGE285
Specs
| Case Size | 41mm |
| Movement | Grand Seiko Cal. 9R66 Spring Drive GMT |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
Pros
- Ultralight and wears well
- Who doesn’t love a Snowflake dial?
Cons
- Bezel can be hard to read in certain lighting conditions
- I wish the power reserve indicator were on the caseback
What makes a brand like Grand Seiko cool? I can think of a few things. One, it’s Spring Drive tech — which combines quartz and mechanical technologies like no other movement on earth — is fascinating. Its nature-inspired dials are both whimsical and gorgeous. And its combination of sporty designs and artisinal finishing create watches with a unique dichotomy.
The “Mistflake” combines all of these elements into one watch — it’s powered by Spring Drive and boasts both the famed “Snowflake” dial and Zaratsu polishing — while also throwing in High-intensity Titanium and a GMT complication into the mix. It’s elegant, yet it’s rugged. It’s beautiful, but it’s sporty. But taken all together, it’s achingly cool.
The Coolest Tudor Watch
TudorTudor Black Bay GMT Opaline
Specs
| Case Size | 41mm |
| Movement | Tudor Cal. MT5652 automatic GMT |
| Water Resistance | 200m |
Pros
- Seriously good-looking
- Comes across as less of a Rolex homage than the black version
Cons
- Wears large due to a 50mm lug-to-lug measurement
- Faux rivets on the bracelet irk many
What a difference a dial makes, huh? Now, just to be clear, I was always a fan of the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial. But there was always a loud contingent of enthusiasts saying the watch was only for those who CaN’t aFfOrD a RoLeX. The white opaline dial version has given the BB GMT more of an identity of its own, and man oh man, does it look good.
The Pepsi bezel just works against that clean dial, and Tudor has applied just enough black around the hands and indices to make them pop without coming across as too bold. It’s both vintage and modern, a nod to Rolex’s storied past while also representing Tudor’s bold vision of a future where it increasingly marches to the beat of its own drum. That is to say: It just looks cool, okay?
The Coolest Omega Watch
OmegaOmega Seamaster Diver 300m 007 Edition ‘No Time to Die’
Specs
| Case Size | 42mm |
| Movement | Omega Cal. 8806 automatic |
| Water Resistance | 300m |
Pros
- Fantastic mix of color and material
- Mesh bracelet adds a new element to the classic Seamaster Diver design
Cons
- Wears large
- Clasp is bulky
I very nearly gave this slot to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Silver Snoopy Award. I mean, who doesn’t love the animated Snoopy caseback? But the most recent Bond movie watch just barely edged it out. The Bond connection certainly doesn’t hurt — I mean, who’s cooler than 007 — but the truth is, this watch would still be here even if it were never worn by any superspies.
Why is that? Well, just look at it. It looks like it was designed in a lab where the sole purpose was to create the world’s coolest watch. The tropical dial and vintage lume, the subtle military nods, the mesh bracelet, the titanium construction. It looks like a highly capable dive watch to be worn by men of action, and that’s exactly what it is. Even in the dark, this Seamaster is cool. Like magic, that yellow lume glows bright blue with the lights out — including all markings on the bezel — with the exception of the bezel pip and the minute hand, which glow green. How?!
The Coolest Zenith Watch
ZenithZenith Defy 21 Chroma II
Specs
| Case Size | 44mm |
| Movement | Zenith El Primero 21 automatic chronograph |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
Pros
- 1/100th chronograph movement is a blast visually
- Rainbow-colored bridges provide visual interest even when the chronograph isn’t running
Cons
- How often are you finding the need to measure down to 1/100th second?
- Oversized at 44mm
Zenith is a historically important brand in the world of horology, having been the first to announce an automatic chronograph movement — the famous El Primero — back in 1969. But the brand is not one to rest on its laurels. Zenith’s watchmakers are constantly pushing boundaries, so much so that I’m convinced their workshop consists mainly of a bunch of people sitting around going, “You know what would be cool…”
Evidence of that line of creative thinking can be seen in this watch. The chronograph movement has two escapements: one for the timekeeping and another for the chronograph. That’s because the chronograph beats at 50 Hz, whipping around the dial once per second and capable of timing down to 1/100th of a second. Seeing the chronograph operate in person is basically guaranteed to put a smile on your face. Making this version of the Defy 21 extra special is the “Chroma” element, which sees parts of the skeletonized movement treated in bright rainbow colors.
The Coolest IWC Watch
IWCIWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe
Specs
| Case Size | 46.5mm |
| Movement | IWC Cal. 52616 automatic perpetual calendar |
| Water Resistance | 60m |
Pros
- White ceramic case and black dial makes for a stunning combination
- One of the best perpetual calendar layouts in the biz
Cons
- Way too big for most to wear
- Lume is seriously lacking
I like watches that give a lot of coolness bang for the buck. When you combine a cool design, a cool material, a cool complication and a cool story, chances are you’re going to end up with a very, very cool watch. That’s exactly what IWC has done with this watch.
The name is a mouthful, so I’m not going to write it out again here, but here’s what you need to know. It’s a pilot’s watch from one of the most storied makers of pilot’s watches in the world. It has a perpetual calendar, arguably the ultimate complication for a watch, in IWC’s trademark sporty layout (love those dual moons). And its case is crafted from snow-white ceramic. The sporty design, the monochrome look, the crazy complication… ugh, it’s just awesome.
The Coolest Chopard Watch
ChopardChopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF
Specs
| Case Size | 41mm |
| Movement | Chopard Cal. 01.12-C automatic |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
Pros
- Striking dial texture
- Super high-beat movement
Cons
- Some think the styling is too derivative
- 4:30 date window will bother even more people
The Alpine Eagle was a little controversial when it came out a few years ago, with some dismissing it as little more than a hybrid of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak intended to cash in the luxury sports watch trend. But Chopard quickly silenced the haters by creating a unique identity for the Alpine Eagle and by expanding the product line with unique editions like the Cadence 8HF.
Like all Alpine Eagles, the Cadence 8HF has that mesmerizing swirled dial inspired by the iris of an eagle’s eye. Here, it looks a bit more subtle thanks to the galvanized black coloring, and I like that Chopard chose to amp up the sportiness by adding orange accents and eliminating all but one Roman numeral from the dial. The watch is also in full titanium, which will always be cool (It’s used in jets and stuff!), and the movement inside is wild. It beats at 8 Hz, which is twice the speed of your average Swiss mechanical watch, leading to a buttery smooth sweep of that orange seconds hand.
The Coolest Blancpain Watch
BlancpainBlancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3
Specs
| Case Size | 41.3mm |
| Movement | Blancpain Cal. 1154.P2 automatic |
| Water Resistance | 300m |
Pros
- Better-looking than practically any other dive watch
- Great mix of vintage and modern styling
Cons
- No bracelet option
- Very expensive
Blancpain’s current iteration of the original modern dive watch, with its fully-lumed sapphire bezel and titanium case, is certainly very cool (especially now that it’s actually wearable). But you know what’s even cooler? Vintage Fifty Fathoms watches. The old mil-spec Blancpain divers from the 1950s and ’60s are peak cool, and this special-edition tribute to those watches does a fantastic job of capturing their essence in a contemporary form.
The big, fully-lumed, symmetrical bezel with the ceramic insert. The warm bronze-gold alloy of the case. The no-date layout. The box sapphire crystal. The fully-functioning moisture indicator. Blancpain basically made a perfect Ship of Theseus Fifty Fathoms, borrowing from various past (and future?) models, and the result is damn cool.
The Coolest H. Moser & Cie. Watch
H. Moser & Cie.H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon
Specs
| Case Size | 40mm |
| Movement | H. Moser & Cie. Cal. HMC 804 automatic tourbillon |
| Water Resistance | 120m |
Pros
- Actually functional as a sports watch
- Gorgeous dial
Cons
- Costs a pretty penny
- A deployant clasp would be nice
Forget coolest watch, Moser might be the coolest watch brand. Pretty much everything the brand puts out possesses this unique quality where it seems as if the brand couldn’t care less what anyone thinks of them, while at the same time consistently producing some of the best examples of modern high horology. Moser’s watches are all unique, beautiful and interesting.
I basically had to flip a coin to choose which Moser watch is the coolest, and I ended up on the Pioneer Tourbillon, mainly due to how brazen it is. This is a legit sports watch with a tourbillon. There’s a notoriously delicate mechanism surrounding the escapement, yet Moser gave this watch 120m of water resistance and only sells it on a rubber strap. It’s almost like the brand is daring you to beat it up a little, which is even more crazy when you realize the watch is more beautiful than most dress watches.
The Coolest Hublot Watch
HublotHublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Purple Sapphire
Specs
| Case Size | 43mm |
| Movement | Hublot Cal. HUB6035 automatic tourbillon |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
Pros
- Sapphire bracelet is stupid comfortable
- Undeniably cool and special
Cons
- Maybe ten people on Earth can pull off this watch (which is good ‘cuz they only made 10)
- It costs over half-a-million dollars
Here is where I suspect I’ll lose any reader who was still with me up to this point. But you know what? I invite your hatred. Let the angry emails flow. This watch absolutely rocks. Yes, I will concede that people may assume this half-million dollar watch is made of plastic. But I don’t care. In hand, this Hublot is absolutely stunning.
The full sapphire bracelet is incredible; it literally feels like silk on the wrist. The all-purple, translucent colorway is unabashedly bold and funky. And the skeletonized movement, with its tourbillon and dial-side micro-rotor emblazoned with the Hublot name, is an absolute joy to look at. Yes, it’s flashy and ridiculous and absurd. But you can’t deny that it’s cool. At least, I can’t anyway.
The Coolest Patek Philippe Watch
Patek PhilippePatek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A
Specs
| Case Size | 42.2mm |
| Movement | Patek Philippe Cal. CH 28‑520 C/522 automatic flyback chronograph |
| Water Resistance | 120m |
Pros
- Fun and funky styling
- Fantastic flyback chronograph movement
Cons
- Expensive and hard to get
- On the larger side
The Nautilus may get the lion’s share of the attention for Patek, but the Aquanaut has my heart. It’s sleeker and sportier, it’s better looking and it has the added cool factor of being worn by both living Beatles. The coolest Aquanaut ever made was the Travel Time version in stainless steel, as it added a very nifty complication without altering the overall look. But, as Patek is wont to do with its most hyped watches, it discontinued that watch last year. (There’s still a rose gold version, but it doesn’t really do it for me.)
So now the title of coolest Patek falls to the chronograph version of the Aquanaut, thanks in no small part to the orange rubber strap that perfectly complements the orange accents of the dial. There’s just something about traditional, conservative, prestigious Patek throwing caution to the wind with a bright orange rubber strap that’s so cool.
The Coolest Rolex Watch
RolexRolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans”
Specs
| Case Size | 40mm |
| Movement | Rolex Cal. 4132 automatic chronograph |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
Pros
- Paul Newman dial!
- A movement you won’t find in any other Daytona
Cons
- Impossible to get
- White gold bumps up the price even further out of reach for mere mortals
Look, I didn’t want this to be my pick from Rolex. It’s way too obvious. But at the end of the day, there could be no other choice. It’s the Crown’s most sought-after model, the Daytona, dressed up in white gold with a couple well-placed red accents and a rare-for-Rolex display caseback showing off the movement. Even the movement is extra cool, as it’s been modified to allow the chronograph to count all 24 hours of Le Mans instead of the usual 12 seen on every other Daytona.
Then, of course, there’s the dial: a reborn Paul Newman-style exotic dial that we never thought we’d ever see on a modern Rolex. These dials, popularized by the King of Cool himself, are just different. They also beg the question: Is the Daytona cool because Paul Newman wore one, or was Paul Newman cool because he wore a Daytona?
